The first time I intended to go to the infamously hip and reservation-less al di lá trattoria in Park Slope, I was told by the host that there would be an hour and a half wait for a table for four – on a Thursday night. Since I was with my parents, it was cold, and we were all hungry, we ended up going to Tempo down the street (which I’ll write about soon enough). As we were moving on, I overheard another hungry, agitated hopeful al di lá diner say to his companion, “It’s not worth the wait anyway.” As much as it’s gratifying to hear that a restaurant that is SOOOO great is actually not so great after you are told you have to wait an hour and a half for their super-food and end up going somewhere else, this is just not the case for al di lá. I’ve twice waited an hour and a half for its food and it’s been worth it both times.

I find that when choosing to go to a restaurant that requires a long wait before dining, it is best to mentally prepare for the evening. In fact, I have come up with a set of rules for such an occasion that I call The Grimaldi’s-On-A-Saturday-Night Rules:

Rule 1: Assume you have to wait over an hour. When you set yourself up for disappointment, it’s much easier to take. That’s how Red Sox fans survived 86 years without a World Series Championship.

Rule 2: Don’t go on an empty stomach. You might want to pound as much pizza at Grimaldi’s or noodles at Momofuku Noodle Bar as is physically possible when you finally sit down to eat, but do everyone else a favor and bring a little nosh. If I don’t follow Rule 1 AND I forget to bring a granola bar, a cool breeze on a 95º night would even piss me off.

Rule 3: Refrain from reading the menu in the window. Never mind the fact that this will only make you hungrier and crankier. What if you glance in the restaurant and see a happy, laughing couple sitting on the other side of the window devouring the exact dish that you want to get? Yes, they are laughing at you for pathetically staring at the menu, and then their dishes, while you wait.

Rule 4: Bring a wide variety of topics to discuss with your friends or loved-ones. As much as you might like these people, talking with them for over three hours total might be a little taxing. Just remember that it’s not even possible to discuss Obama and Clinton for three and a half consecutive hours — unless you work for a popular cable news channel.

Rule 5: Do not load up on bread once you get your table. The point of the nosh is to curb your hunger so that you do not pound every crumb of bread in the basket before the waiter takes your order. Take a deep breathe, drink some water, order an appetizer and everything will be fine.

If you follow these five rules you will be prepared to go to al di lá for dinner at 8:00 on a Friday night.

The reason it’s important to accept these rules is because the food is that good at al di lá. The sepia and oxtail, served over creamy polenta, is THE best appetizer I’ve had in New York City. The polenta is perfect, the sauce is spicy and rich, and the cuttlefish and oxtail are unbelievably tender. This is what Surf and Turf would be like in a Terry Gilliam film. The carpaccio is also delicious, and is served with anchovies and capers. The best carpaccio I’ve ever had (and the only). I was won over.

I’ve also gotten the calf’s liver, which is probably the most intense thing I’ve ever eaten. I’m not sure what percentage of the liver was served to me, but it seemed like it might have been the entire organ. Though it was good, it was simply too rich and, dare I say, too large of a portion. For a calf’s liver lover, this dish might be considered heavenly.

The second time I went to al di lá, I went with my friends Henry and Maddie and sister, Meg. Maddie was visiting for the weekend and al di lá was the perfect restaurant to show off how hip I can be. This meal went as well as my first excursion, but we all made one fatal flaw – we broke Rule 4. I loaded up on so much bread that you’d think I was at Olive Garden. Therefore, I was incapable of getting an appetizer. I know my limits, so it took great willpower to pass on the sepia and oxtail — the same willpower that was nonexistent when the bread hit the table.

Henry got the quail special, which was stuffed with sausage. I wish I could tell you how it was, but he didn’t offer me any of it. I assume it was good. I got the rabbit with olives and polenta, which was delicious. The last time I had rabbit was maybe eight years ago when I went to Quebec City. I missed it.

Maddie got the Manila clams and spaghetti, which she was very fond of. Meg got the malfatti, which is gnocchi that is traditionally made with spinach, but was prepared with Swiss chard. Delicious. The pastas aren’t really big portions, but are filling and cost $11 to $17. For dessert we got an assortment of gelati: chocolate with caramel, honey, and tartufo. All were amazing and came with a small piece of toffee.

You have to pick your poison when eating out at a popular restaurant in New York City. There are places like Babbo where you have to make a reservation a month in advance. Or, there are places like al di lá where you’ll have to wait an hour and a half to get in. When you compare the two options, there’s something much more accessible about al di lá than the other hotspots. If you’re in the mood to eat at arguably the hippest restaurant in Brooklyn you’re able. You just need to wait. Remember The Rules and after you’ve eaten you will not think about standing around for an hour and a half. You’ll be thinking about that great meal you just had.

There is no hiding the excitement Rico’s Tacos’ owners have for their restaurant. On the wall outside is painted a large, happy pig cooking in soup. It’s almost as if he knows how good he’s going to taste after simmering for hours in a spicy broth. Even Rico’s Tacos’ delivery truck stands out. The tiny, neon orange vehicle seems almost like a taunt – you dare not to smirk because you know what’s inside. Some would characterize these things as charm, but it’s confidence that pours out like the scent of stewing beef from the restaurant’s doors.

The restaurant itself is so small that you may find yourself sandwiched between dining patrons and rushing waitresses as you wait for a table. Don’t be concerned about hovering over people while they’re eating their delicious tortas – just make sure you don’t drool on them. Not the people, the tortas. You’ll get yours shortly.

Since living in Sunset Park, I’ve had a lot of great tacos, but Rico’s Tacos’ are the best. Like most of the others in the neighborhood, the prices range from $1 to $1.50. They’re pretty small, but a selection of tongue, head, pork skin, and tripe tacos will definitely fill you up (don’t worry, they have chicken, spicy pork, and fried pork, as well) for around $5. The meat’s tender, greasy, filling, and delicious.

However, Rico’s Tacos is much more than tacos. The tostadas are piled high with onions, lettuce, beans, Oaxacan cheese, and meat for $2. Also, the pozole ($3 for small, $6 for large) is amazing. They jam-pack this soup with hominy and pork. Don’t forget to put in the onion, limes, Mexican oregano, and chili powder that they put on the table.

Although everything I’ve eaten at Rico’s Tacos is great, I suggest going on the weekend so you can get the Caldo de Camarones (Shrimp Soup), which is a weekend special. As good as the tostada, tacos, and pozole are, this soup is the best thing I’ve eaten there, if not in all of Sunset Park. This spicy tomato-based soup is filled with a dozen head-on shrimp that almost melt when you eat them. I have no idea how long they cook in there, but I’m guessing it must be exactly the same amount of seconds it took the Yankees to win Game 4 of the 1998 World Series. It’s that satisfying.

• When I started my current job a few months ago, I was excited to see what the Financial District had to offer for lunch. I’ve since learned that this neighborhood has little of worth in this category, but one place does stand out – Sam’s Falafel in Lincoln Plaza. When I first saw it, the large line that protruded from this tiny cart overwhelmed me. I was also surprised by the large amount of Wall Street types excitedly waiting for Sam’s $3 falafel sandwich. Either these men in suits were trying to save money in preparation for the now imminent recession, or the falafel is just that good. Either way, dozens of Wall Street types can’t be wrong, so I tried one of Sam’s $3 falafel sandwiches. It was dense, messy, and delicious – by far the best thing I’ve had in the neighborhood. Well worth leaving the NASDAQ floor, or your data entry job, for.

• The following is an illustration of my friend, Josh, and me during Senior year – most likely right before leaving for Kingston’s Wendy’s. The craving in our eyes is beautifully depicted by Justin Maung. If you have any Fein Dining-inspired art, write me a message and I’ll gladly check it out.

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• The New York Times has written about Sunset Park’s Chinatown and 5th Avenue again. That still doesn’t make up for them endorsing Clinton.

In college, I had a food-focused radio show called “Binge and Purge” that I did with my friends Jared and Michael. We focused mostly on reviewing local restaurants and one of our favorites was the German restaurant Wunderbar & Bistro in Hudson, NY. There is something about a plate full of bockwurst and sauerkraut that is irresistible to me, and Wunderbar has some of the best wursts I’ve ever had. It’s one of those restaurants that cause me to rave about it years after I eat there (hence this rant). All of us enjoyed it so much that we gave it our highest rating – “It’s so good I’d binge on it until I purged just so I could binge on it again.”

Michael recently moved to Park Slope, Brooklyn, and has been raving about Café Steinhof, an Austrian restaurant on Seventh Avenue and 14th Street. I periodically reminisce about Wunderbar and more-than-periodically crave Austrian and German fare. Café Steinhof, I was hoping, would be the answer to my Central European desires.

Coincidentally, going to Café Steinhof for dinner was a reunion-of-sorts for “Binge and Purge.” My non-meat eating sister was there, as well, and although they don’t have Tofu Wursts, they have plenty of pescatarian and vegetarian offerings. However, that’s like getting mole sauce at Willy Wonka’s chocolate factory. Even so, the sautéed brook trout ($14) with green beans and roasted potatoes was delicious.

I was so focused on what type of sausage I was going to get for my entrée, that I didn’t pay much attention to the appetizers. Thankfully, Jared ordered the chicken liver pate ($6), which came with sour cherries and cornichons. Whenever I eat pate, fond memories of my childhood come to focus — like I’m in Marcel Proust’s Swann’s Way. In this case, instead of madeleines, it’s chopped liver.

In elementary school, there were two lunch items I ate that were OK when I was surrounded by non-judgmental 8 year-olds, but I quickly put an end to once I reached middle school – matzo and butter and liverwurst sandwiches. The matzo was a special occurrence that only appeared around Passover. However, eating liverwurst and mayonnaise sandwiches was much more common. I remember adoring those sandwiches, but it was a blind love — little did I know that my favorite lunchtime meal was made with an animal’s liver. As I matured from a delirious little boy to a self-conscious man-boy, my love affair with liverwurst ended.

It was actually until only recently that I was reminded of my childhood obsession with chopped liver. Last Passover, my mother made chopped chicken liver and as I took that first bite, it was like I returned to that elementary school lunch table where I unabashedly devoured my favorite treat. My love of chopped liver was resurrected.

The chicken liver pate at Café Steinhof is delicious and would remind anyone who orders it why they are so fond of this mashed organ. Its combination with the sour cherries and cornichons adds bite to the lightness and creaminess of the pate. I was there for the sausage, but the pate was the best part of the entire meal. Frankly, it’s worth going to Café Steinhof if only just for this appetizer.

I ordered the Weisswurst ($10), which came with potatoes and sauerkraut. The sausage, made with veal and pork, was very tasty, but not very warm. The heaping pile of sauerkraut was delicious and had some pork chunks in it, which was a pleasant surprise. The potatoes were also very good and added some nice crunchy texture to the soft sauerkraut and sausage.

Michael ordered the Wiener schnitzel sandwich ($9), which came with a salad. The Wiener schnitzel was also very good, and Michael said that he really liked the salad. Jared ordered the Sauerbraten ($13), which came with red cabbage and potatoes. It was recommended by the waiter and for good reason. The meat was juicy and tender and the red cabbage was fantastic.

Café Steinhof is more than capable of filling my craving for Austrian food. The authentic sausage and meats, delicious chicken liver pate, and cheap prices will be tough to top by anyplace else so close to home. In just a few stops on the R train from Sunset Park, it’s like you’re transported to the heart of Vienna – or, in my case, to my elementary school cafeteria.

Below is my mother’s original chopped chicken liver recipe. It’s my early Passover gift to you:

Chopped Chicken Liver

2 lbs or so chicken livers
Chop a small white onion or half of a large one
Chop a few cloves of garlic

Put several tablespoons (2-4) of butter in a pan
Once the butter is melted, add livers, onions, garlic
Add 2 bay leaves
Sprinkle with pepper and salt, to taste

Cook until the livers are done and the onions are soft (make sure that this doesn’t get dried out — sometimes I have had to add a little more butter, especially if I don’t use that much to start)
Remove bay leaves

Place livers and onions in food processor and pulse several times
Add several tablespoons of mayonnaise, to taste, and pulse some more until you get the consistency that you like
Adjust seasoning, as needed (that is, add more salt and pepper, and more mayo, as needed)

It’s easy to romanticize things from our past. With me, “remembering” is just code for thinking about food, but food that I’ve already eaten. Along with LEGOs, food was always at the top of my Christmas list. The holidays haven’t changed so much since those days. I have moved on from plastic spacemen and pirate ships, but that only means more room for Christmas sweets and meat.

When my sister and I arrived home in New Hampshire from Sunset Park, Brooklyn, we were greeted with hugs, kisses, and numerous tins of homemade cookies. I recognized most of the treats because they have been a staple in every Christmas at our household since even well before LEGOs, including sugar cookies cut into stockings and Christmas trees, rugelach, and meringues. There were also new cookies, like ‘Strippers’ and Mexican chocolate cookies.

My mom’s cookies will be forever linked to Christmas Eve and Christmas dinners. After a meal of ham or lamb or beef (and some potatoes and vegetables), a plate full of cookies and candy would always appear on the table. I would call it a Christmas miracle, but then I would probably have to go to church more often. Instead, let’s call it a Feingold family practice that I have come to take for granted.

My parents and sister usually cook the Christmas feast while I sit and stare at the food or my computer or the T.V. This year, after deciding to make a more concerted effort in the cooking process, I stirred a few onions and chopped some carrots. Then I was done. I came home, stirred some vegetables, and ate. I’m not sure which Jesus would approve of more, my laziness or the ‘Strippers.’

Although my mother still makes the cookies, she hasn’t made her chocolate candies in a few years. Her homemade chocolate candies are one of my all-time favorite holiday food traditions in our house. While I understand it’s a burden to drip melted chocolate in those tiny plastic molds, let it harden, drop some caramel or candy cane bits in, and drip some more chocolate on top – over and over again – all the while, making a huge mess that I always seemed to get away with not having to deal with, they’re really good.

Christmas is a time when I have access to the foods of my childhood – the foods that started my love affair with eating. My mom’s chocolates are one of them. And as my girlfriend pointed out, if I type this, they will come. My mom reads my posts.

I’ve wanted to include recipes on Fein Dining, and there is no better time than now. Here are my mother’s recipes for rugelach and “Cutouts.” I also included the recipe for Mexican Chocolate Cookies from Cooking Light.

Rugelach

1/2 lb unsalted butter, softened
8 ounces cream cheese, softened
2 cups flour

Cream the butter and cream cheese together
Beat in the flour a little at a time.
Knead the dough lightly until all the flour is incorporated.
Refrigerate at least 1 hour.
Divide the dough into 2 portions

Raisin Nut Filling:
1/2 cup sugar
1/2 cup raisins
1 tsp cinnamon
1 cup finely chopped nuts
1/4 cup sugar (for the top of the rugelach)

Strawberry/Raspberry/Apricot Filling:
1/2 cup ground almonds
1/2 cup strawberry, etc…jam
1/4 cup sugar (for the top of the rugelach)

Preheat oven to 350 degrees

Roll out one portion of dough in a circle that’s 1/16″ thick. With a knife, pastry wheel or pizza cutter, cut the pastry into 16 wedges.

Spread filling onto the wedge. Roll up, starting at the wide edge.
Place on ungreased cookie sheet and then sprinkle with sugar.

Bake for 15-18 minutes, or until golden brown on the top.

“Cutouts” (Rolled Butter Cookies)

1 cup butter, softened
1 cup sugar
1 egg
2 Tbs. cream or milk
1 Tbs. orange rind, grated fine
1 tsp. baking powder
1 tsp salt
1 tsp vanilla
1 tsp baking soda
3 cups flour

Preheat 400 degrees

Cream together softened butter, sugar in mixer
Add egg, cream, orange rind, and vanilla

Mix together flour, baking powder, salt, and baking soda
Add gradually to the mixing bowl

If needed, chill in the refrigerator before placing on cookie sheets to firm up a bit
Roll out to desired thickness

Bake for 5-7 minutes on ungreased cookie sheets

Mexican Chocolate Cookies

5 ounces bittersweet (60 to 70 percent) chocolate, coarsely chopped
3/4 cup all-purpose flour (about 3 1/3 ounces)
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon salt
Dash of black pepper
Dash of ground red pepper
1 1/4 cups sugar
1/4 cup butter, softened
1 large egg
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
Cooking spray

Preheat oven to 350°.

Place chocolate in a small glass bowl; microwave at HIGH 1 minute or until almost melted, stirring until smooth. Cool to room temperature.

Lightly spoon flour into a dry measuring cup; level with a knife. Combine flour and next 5 ingredients (through red pepper); stir with a whisk.

Combine sugar and butter in a large bowl; beat with a mixer at medium speed until well blended (about 5 minutes). Add egg; beat well. Add cooled chocolate and vanilla; beat just until blended. Add flour mixture; beat just until blended. Drop dough by level tablespoons 2 inches apart on baking sheets coated with cooking spray. Bake at 350° for 10 minutes or until almost set. Remove from oven. Cool on pans 2 minutes or until set. Remove from pans; cool completely on a wire rack.

• I often find myself scouring the web for food-related items. However, I have often gone to bed hungry for more information on Sunset Park restaurants and food – disappointed that this Brooklyn neighborhood doesn’t get more respect from the local media. During one particular all-night binge of relishing the Internet and my snacks, I found an article on one of the many culinary wonders found in Sunset Park — a review of Ming Gee Seafood Palace in the Daily News. Also, my mother recently sent me an article she found in The New York Times (I wonder where I get my Internet obsession from…) about tacos. It’s nice to see one of America’s most prestigious and important newspapers showing respect for Sunset Park’s dining scene. It’s also good to see The New York Times jumping in…

• While patrolling Sunset Park’s 8th Ave., I’ve seen a fair amount of Chinese markets displaying buckets full of geoduck (pronounced ‘gooey duck’).

I saw this monstrosity for the first time on No Reservations and was reminded of one of my nightmares from my childhood, where a large animal-like object stalked after my dog, Gypsy, while she was outside going to the bathroom. I have since gotten over having this reaction and actually find the geoduck to be the main attraction of 8th Ave. whenever I go up there. I hope to have a geoduck party one day, but I should probably improve my gag reflex before I slice open that syphon…

• I came across a Chinese movie, “The Untold Story,” about a serial killer who chops up his victims and puts their flesh in the pork buns at his restaurant. I’m not sure if this is supposed to whet my appetite…

I have pretty low standards for late-night feasting. I owe this to growing up in New Hampshire and having very little access to 24-hour diners. The closest sort is a 35-minute drive away from the house I grew up in — and it’s a truck stop. If you find yourself hungry, dirty, and in need of a rest while driving on I-89 near Lebanon, NH, it’s worth stopping in for some eggs and a shower. Otherwise, it’s not really worth going to.

When I went to college, I took full advantage of what the closest city, Kingston, NY, had to offer. My friends and I would frequent Wendy’s and Michael’s Diner a handful of times per month, especially during our Senior Projects, when I tried to eat my stress away. It didn’t matter that the food at Michael’s was sub-par (Wendy’s, on the other hand…) So, when a new 24-hour Mexican restaurant/diner, named Los Tres Potrillos, opened up on 4th Ave. and 39th St. I thought I found my new late-night hangout.

Despite not really caring about the quality of the food I eat at 2 in the morning (anything warm is usually better than chips and Gatorade from a gas station), I cannot fully express my displeasure of this new restaurant. The el pastor was bad, the burger came meatless (they actually forgot to put the patty on the bun), the enchiladas were nothing special, and everything was over-priced. When the best thing about a restaurant is the rotating Jell-O display in the back, there’s a problem. Frankly, I cannot think of a situation where I will go back there.

Later that evening, I was able to satisfy my late-night hunger and get the disappointment of Los Tres Potrillos out of my mouth by getting donuts from Sunset Park Diner and Donuts and a taco and ribs from the taco truck on 36th St. and 4th Ave. At 2 a.m. (or any other time) nothing really beats getting a $7 platter of beef ribs covered in Chimichurri sauce, fried plantains, and a salad and a $1.25 taco — especially when it’s followed by a delivery of a dozen donuts for less than $5 an hour later. This has been my ritual the last few Saturdays, but I’m leaving for N.H. tomorrow for the holidays. I better load up tonight.

Having known me for quite some time, my friends hypothesized that for my birthday I would want to stuff my face with food. Over a Long Birthday Weekend Feast — from Thursday, November 15 to Sunday, November 18 – the hypothesis became law. On Thursday, my birthday, I wanted to get take-out from a Dominican rotisserie chicken place right near the 45th St. subway stop on 4th Ave in Sunset Park. I used to refer to Las Antillas as “pollos al carbon” because there is a little sign with a cooking chicken on it with that saliva-inducing phrase right above the massive Las Antillas sign. Up until a few weeks ago I thought “pollos al carbon” was the name of the restaurant because I was always so focused on that little sign.

My roommates and I ordered a whole roasted chicken, white rice, yellow rice, and beans. The chicken was amazing and as moist and flavorful as the chicken at Super Pollo. The chicken at Super Pollo may have had more herbal flavor and aroma, but the chicken at Las Antillas was pretty unbelievable, as well. There was a massive portion of rice and the beans were delicious, as well, but soupy and not as good as the pork-laden beans from Super Pollo. I was very impressed with Las Antillas and it was the perfect beginning to the Feast.

On Friday, I ventured out of Sunset Park to craftbar on 900 Broadway, near Union Square. I was surprised there by my loyal and hungry friends and sister and, because they were paying the bill, I especially enjoyed the food there. I got both the fried sausage in sage leaves and warm pecorino fondue with Acacia honey, hazelnuts and pepperoncini for starters (which I shared with others). They were amazing. The flavors in the fondue were really impressive and, although pretty filling, really, really enjoyable – especially when paired with something savory like the sausage, which I pounded so quickly I can’t really explain why I liked them so much. What was also great about the fondue was the use of heat. The warmth of the fondue combined with the honey made the honey burst in your mouth with flavor, which heightened the culinary experience. I also tried some of Jared’s veal sweetbreads, which were also amazing.

I ordered the veal breast for my entrée, which was my favorite part of the meal. It was a nice hunk of veal with a light tomato-based sauce atop cheesy grits and mushrooms. These were, of course, the most fancy grits I’ve ever had and I devoured the entire plate. For dessert I got chocolate cake with coffee crunch ice cream. The cake was good, but the ice cream was incredible. I REALLY loved that ice cream – so smooth, yet so crunchy.

On Saturday night, a bunch of people came over to my apartment in Sunset Park. We bought 90 frozen dumplings ($15) from Kai Feng Fu. After a little testing (boiling then pan frying), Pat, Jared, and Zach perfected the art of cooking these treats and they were fantastic, as usual. We also ordered three pizzas from Johnny’s Pizza at 5806 5th Ave. (between 58th and 59th St.). It’s not the best pizza in the world, but it is the best I’ve had in Sunset Park. Some guests commented that it was too ‘crusty,’ but they also managed to eat three slices along with God-knows-how-many dumplings.

Just a few hours sleep after the Italian and Chinese feast (they do say that pizza was invented in China, however), those who remained got brunch at Eclipse on 4314 4th Ave. I’ve gotten take-out from this Mexican restaurant before, but it was the first time I had eaten in the restaurant. It, along with Maria’s Bistro Mexicano, is one of the ‘hip’ restaurants in Sunset Park.

I ordered eggs with salsa verde, which was massive and delicious. It was about three scrambled eggs tossed in salsa verde, which was really spicy. It also came with black beans, which were also really good. The three other people with me got omelets. For $5 you choose three ingredients, including chorizo and cactus (nopales). They also have a wide variety of shakes and drinks. I got pineapple water (agua de piña), Jared got a melon shake, and Zach got a strawberry shake. All were great and a perfect complement to a spicy start to the day.

Although Thanksgiving is my main culinary focus in November, I am never disappointed by the constant flow of food around my birthday. In consecutive weekends, I eat enough food to hibernate for the winter. Or, at least, to sustain me until Hanukkah latkes and Christmas ham, a few weeks later.

This past weekend I went home to New Hampshire and stopped at one of my new favorite restaurants on the stretch from NYC to NH — Rein’s Deli, a “New York-style deli.” I did not find out about this place until this past year, which upset me greatly. There are two locations – Vernon, CT and West Springfield, MA. The West Springfield one is (basically) right on the way to and from Bard College, where I went to school. I drove dozens of times to and from school over those four years and I had no idea Rein’s existed. After tasting the pastrami at Rein’s for the first time over the summer, I first felt absolute glee, which was then soon replaced by anger and disappointment, when I realized I could have felt the glee I had just felt DOZENS OF TIMES during my tenure at school. This was even more disappointing than when I visited Bard for the first time after graduation and found out that an Arby’s opened up the YEAR AFTER I GRADUATED. Imagine my culinary delights if I could go to Rein’s Deli and Arby’s multiple times a semester.

Anyway, Rein’s Deli offers one of my favorite foods of all time – a tongue sandwich. I remember my first experience tasting this tender muscle (aside from accidentally biting down on my tongue while eating food too quickly, which really, really hurts). I must have been between 10 and 13 years old when I went to either the Stage Deli or Carnegie Deli while on a trip to New York City with my family. I was there with my father when he said he wanted to get a tongue sandwich. I probably ordered pastrami, but when our meals came, my dad asked if I wanted to give him half of my sandwich for half of his. Either out of curiosity or the chance to bond with my father, I agreed to this deal and really liked it (either because I actually enjoyed it or because it was a way to impress him). I actually remember describing it at the time as tasting like “fancy bologna,” which isn’t too far off. It’s incredibly tender and light and the only thing that I find odd about it is that it’s served cold, but that only enhances the experience. I never had a bar mitzvah because I became an adult member of the Jewish community that day.

Since that important day, I have almost always ordered tongue whenever I have seen it on a menu. Sadly, this is not a frequent occurrence. So, I usually ordered a cold tongue sandwich (on rye with mustard) whenever I went to Rein’s and when I didn’t (because I’m really in the mood for pastrami) I felt ashamed. I have since ordered half tongue AND half pastrami sandwiches, which is, I believe, what the rabbis ate while writing the Talmud.

My pilgrimages to Rein’s Deli were my only source of tongue consumption until recently, when I moved to Sunset Park. No, I have not gone back to the Stage or Carnegie Deli (but I am eagerly awaiting the return of the Second Avenue Deli). Instead, I have experienced a new, Mexican delicacy – tongue tacos – from Tacos Matamoros on 4508 5th Ave. in Sunset Park.

We had just moved to Sunset Park and I had heard that Tacos Matamoros had really good tacos, so I got take-out with my sister one day. I was searching through their $1 and $1.50 tacos when I noticed ‘lengua.’ Now, I don’t know much Spanish, but I do know what lengua means – because I’m obsessed with tongue. Because we had just moved to Sunset Park, I was excited about my new surroundings and couldn’t wait to try the great Mexican food in the neighborhood. However, as high as my expectations were for Sunset Park food, I never expected such a delight. After years of scouring menus for tongue and being greatly disappointed for its exclusion, I had gotten into the habit of not looking for it anymore, not wanting to keep disappointing myself. I hadn’t even tasted the food at Tacos Matamoros, but I already felt a connection to it, thanks to the tongue.

At Tacos Matamoros, the tongue is diced into small chunks and fried. Still tender, but not cold, which is a good choice. Along with cilantro, onions, and two corn tortillas, the lengua taco is delicious and more than enough satisfies my love of eating tongue.

Their other tacos are really, really good as well. I adore their carnitas tacos and greatly respect the greasiness of them. Their pollo, carne asada, pastor, and enchilada tacos are also really good, and, at $1, are such a satisfying deal. I have yet to try their head or tripe tacos, but will eventually order them, so that I can attempt to impress my father again.

Besides Tacos Matamaros’ tacos, the only thing I really love there is something I had never had before getting it there – chilaquiles ($6.50). This dish is basically layered tortillas with cheese and sauce (in this case, salsa verde) and some things I couldn’t pay attention to because I was too busy eating and being impressed with this new wonderful meal (probably onions).

I’ve also had their ceviche, which was not as light as I usually like it, mostly because it was drenched in some tomato sauce. It was a huge amount, however, and was a great deal for $7. Their flautas ($6) and tortas ($5) are also pretty good, but their enchiladas rank low to the others I’ve had in Sunset Park. However, when staring at other diners’ food, I’ve noticed the soup ($6 or $8.50), which looks amazing and will hopefully be perfect on a cold winter day – or tomorrow.

Tacos Matamoros is a great restaurant for dining in, eating out, and tongue (and other) tacos. Delis like Rein’s and places like Tacos Matamoros will always hold a special place in my heart for their accommodation to my tongue obsession. Although, I have noticed that many other places in Sunset Park accommodate my other culinary obsessions, which pleases me beyond words. However, maybe I’ll stick to the tongue theme and get some Malaysian duck tongues before I move onto the head.