There’s only one thing I like more than eating meat — looking at meat. Since moving to Sunset Park, I’ve often been hypnotized by the marbling of a nice pork tenderloin or oxtail while shopping in one of the local grocery stores. Although both Key Foods and C-Town on Fifth Avenue offer great viewings, I’ve never been as mesmerized by carne as when I walked past Meat Market on 51st Street the other day. After staring at the calf’s feet and tripe for a few minutes, I decided to take a picture of this fascinating sight:
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Although I enjoy ordering calf’s liver and sweetbreads in restaurants, I have yet been able to stomach preparing similar objectionable meats for myself at home. I find myself stuck staring rather than purchasing and am left envious of the locals preparing their pig’s feet for dinner.
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I could argue that I don’t cook tripe because I don’t have access to a good recipe, but that would be a lie. I live in a neighborhood where I have access to any part of the pig or cow, while also possessing the cookbooks of some of the greatest carnivores on Earth — Martin Picard and Anthony Bourdain.
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I would like to share a recipe from each chef. The first is Picard’s Maple Pigs’ Feet recipe, which can be found in Au Pied de Cochon, a great book about Picard’s restaurant in Montréal. There is also a fantastic article in The New Yorker that highlights this and two other “meat books,” which you can find here. The second recipe is Bourdain’s Tripes “Les Halles,” which can be found in Anthony Bourdain’s Les Halles Cookbook. I hope at least one of you out there has the guts to make either of these dishes, but make sure to shave off any lingering hairs on the trotters before you cook them. I think I’ll just go to the Meat Market and stare at the pig’s ears.
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Maple Pigs’ Feet
(Serves 4)
(Serves 4)
Ingredients:
2 front pigs’ feet (including shank and foot)
2 carrots (whole)
1 head garlic (whole)
1 sprig thyme
6 boiler onions (cut in 2)
8 cups pork stock
1 cup maple syrup
7 tablespoons vinaigrette (see recipe)
¼ cup fresh Italian parsley (chopped)
Salt and pepper
Brine – 2 cups of salt dissolved in 1.2 gallons of water
2 carrots (whole)
1 head garlic (whole)
1 sprig thyme
6 boiler onions (cut in 2)
8 cups pork stock
1 cup maple syrup
7 tablespoons vinaigrette (see recipe)
¼ cup fresh Italian parsley (chopped)
Salt and pepper
Brine – 2 cups of salt dissolved in 1.2 gallons of water
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1. Soak the pigs’ feet in the brine for 4 hours
2. Put the pigs’ feet, onions, carrots, garlic and thyme in an ovenproof casserole dish
3. Pour the pork stock and maple syrup over the meat (The liquid should come about halfway up the sides of the pigs’ feet)
4. Cook uncovered in the oven at 325º F. Baste the feet with the broth every half hour until they are well-glazed and develop a nice crust. Cook for 4 hours, until the meat comes easily off the bone. Set the pigs’ feet, the carrots, and the onions aside. (There should remain approx. 2 cups of stock and drippings)
5. Strain the stock and drippings into a saucepan. Cut the carrots into macédoine (approx. 1/8 in. dice) and add these and the onions to the pan. Bring to a boil. Remove from heat and whisk in the vinaigrette. Add the parsley and correct seasoning as needed.
6. Serve the pigs’ feet with a generous topping of the sauce and vegetables.
2. Put the pigs’ feet, onions, carrots, garlic and thyme in an ovenproof casserole dish
3. Pour the pork stock and maple syrup over the meat (The liquid should come about halfway up the sides of the pigs’ feet)
4. Cook uncovered in the oven at 325º F. Baste the feet with the broth every half hour until they are well-glazed and develop a nice crust. Cook for 4 hours, until the meat comes easily off the bone. Set the pigs’ feet, the carrots, and the onions aside. (There should remain approx. 2 cups of stock and drippings)
5. Strain the stock and drippings into a saucepan. Cut the carrots into macédoine (approx. 1/8 in. dice) and add these and the onions to the pan. Bring to a boil. Remove from heat and whisk in the vinaigrette. Add the parsley and correct seasoning as needed.
6. Serve the pigs’ feet with a generous topping of the sauce and vegetables.
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Vinaigrette Recipe:
In a mixing bowl, whisk together 7 tablespoons mustard, 7 tablespoons red wine vinegar, and a pinch of salt. Gradually whisk in 2 cups vegetable oil, stirring constantly to create an emulsion.
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Tripes “Les Halles”
(Serves 12)
(Serves 12)
Ingredients:
2 lb honeycomb tripe
2 lb feathered tripe
1 calf’s foot (cut into 4 pieces – have your butcher cut it; he has a band saw)
salt and pepper
2 onions (skin on, cut in half)
1 onion (peeled and thinly sliced)
1 lb pork belly
4 pig’s ears
2 lb great northern beans
½ lb Serran ham scraps
1 bouquet garni
4 tbsp pork fat
4 garlic cloves (crushed)
1 tbsp ground cumin
2 carrots (cut into ¼ inch slices)
1 tbsp tomato paste
10 ounces Spanish chorizo
3 blood sausages
2 lb feathered tripe
1 calf’s foot (cut into 4 pieces – have your butcher cut it; he has a band saw)
salt and pepper
2 onions (skin on, cut in half)
1 onion (peeled and thinly sliced)
1 lb pork belly
4 pig’s ears
2 lb great northern beans
½ lb Serran ham scraps
1 bouquet garni
4 tbsp pork fat
4 garlic cloves (crushed)
1 tbsp ground cumin
2 carrots (cut into ¼ inch slices)
1 tbsp tomato paste
10 ounces Spanish chorizo
3 blood sausages
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Equipment:
2 very large pots, 1 with lid
colander
large bowl
2 large pots
4-quart storage container
large earthenware casserole or baking dish
colander
large bowl
2 large pots
4-quart storage container
large earthenware casserole or baking dish
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This dish takes three days to make:
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Day 1
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To prep the meat, place both types of tripe and the calf’s foot in a very large pot and cover with water. Add 2 tablespoons salt and one of the halved onions. Bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer, and cook for about 2 hours, until the tripe is tender.Drain the tripe, allow it to cool, then cut it into 2-inch squares. Remove the meat and gelatinous material from the calf’s foot, and cut into 1-inch pieces. Discard the bones. Refrigerate the tripe and the foot meat.In a separate very large pot, combine the pork belly and the pig’s ears and cover with cold water. Bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer, and cook for about 1 ½ hours, or until the meat is tender. Drain the meats, reserving a gallon of the cooking liquid, and allow to cool. Cut the pork belly into 1 ½-inch squares and the pig’s ears into 1-inch pieces. Refrigerate. Soak the beans in cold water overnight.
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Day 2
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Drain and rinse the beans and place in a large pot. Cover with cold water and add the Serrano ham scraps, the bouquet garni, and the remaining halved onion. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to a simmer, and cook for about 45 minutes, or until the beans are tender. Strain the beans and set aside. Chuck out the bouquet garni.
In the other large pot, heat 2 tbsp pork fat until melted and sizzling. Add the sliced onion, garlic, and cumin and cook until soft and translucent, stirring occasionally. Add the carrots and cook for a minute, then stir in the tomato paste. Cook for 2 minutes, then add all of the cooked meats and 1 cup of the reserved cooking liquid. Bring the mixture to a simmer and season with salt and pepper. Cover and let simmer for 15 minutes. Now, add the beans and the remaining cooking liquid. Bring to a boil, reduce to a low simmer, cover, and cook for 2 hours. Let cool and refrigerate overnight.
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Day 3
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Preheat the oven to 325ºF. Transfer the mixture to a large earthenware casserole or baking dish. Add the chorizo and the boudins noirs. Top the mixture with the remaining pork fat (2 tbsp) and put in the oven. Cook for 1½ hours. Remove from the oven and let rest 15 minutes before serving.
