After just moving to Sunset Park, I spent many afternoons wandering 4th, 5th, and 8th Avenues, investigating my new neighborhood. At the time, there was a restaurant that was about to be opened called Maria’s Bistro Mexicano on 886 5th Ave. It seemed to be a quaint, slightly more-upscale restaurant that I wanted to try on a Friday or Saturday night instead of venturing into Manhattan or Park Slope for similarly higher-priced Mexican food. I finally went to Maria’s this weekend with my sister, Meg, and friend, Jared.

The three of us were more than impressed with the decor as we walked into Maria’s Bistro Mexicano and were seated at our table. One wall is covered in brick, while the opposite walls are painted in bright colors, like purple and yellow. Each table is decorated with fresh flowers and a molcajete. A good start, and, since it was raining and disgusting outside, a pleasant escape.

After we were seated, we were immediately given chips and salsa, even before we were given our menus. I commented on this at the time, and was impressed with this order of operations. I just liked the idea of immediately being given food after sitting down and before I had to concentrate on ordering my meal. It was refreshing taking those few minutes after being seated eating chips and talking about how much I enjoyed getting chips before the menu, rather than asking Meg and Jared what they were going to get, which is the usual topic of conversation. The chips, by the way, were thick, which I like, but weren’t quite seasoned enough. The salsa was thin, but flavorful and spicy.

After being given our chips, the waiter asked us if we wanted guacamole and at what spiciness. We couldn’t resist guacamole and asked for it hot. He took the molcajate from the table and left. Because the molcajate was on the table, we assumed they made the guacamole there, but weren’t bothered by them making it in the back. I always do feel a little uncomfortable when they make it at the table, not sure how to react to the waiter or waitress mashing the avocado and other ingredients in front of me.

Although we asked for the guacamole to be spicy, it really wasn’t at all. The avocados were fresh and came from a massive pile from a huge molcajate in the back of the restaurant, which was fun, but the guacamole was disappointing and $6. We then ordered our meals. I got the Sopa de Pozole ($4.95) as a starter, which was a soup of hominy corn and chicken in a tomato broth. It came with a plate of avocado slices, lime, lettuce, and radish, which you put in the soup yourself. I really enjoyed it, especially the hominy corn, which I had never had before. The chicken was also tender and juicy.

For entrees Meg got the enchiladas de queso ($8.95), which was in a green tomatillo sauce. The corn tortillas were stuffed with Oaxacan cheese, a more traditional Mexican cheese that I’ve seen in every other Mexican restaurant in Sunset Park. However, I was surprised to see it at Maria’s, which seems to cater less to the Mexican locals and more to white twenty-somethings, like me. The enchiladas were tasty and spicy and better than some of the others I’ve had in the area, but not the best, either.

Jared ordered the grilled beef burrito ($5.95), which he devoured immediately. He didn’t offer me any, which I will not hold against him, so I will assume it was good because he pounded it as quickly as you can pound a burrito and, right after he finished it, he proclaimed that it was “very good.”

I ordered three tacos for dinner, including barbacoa ($3), pork ($2), and shrimp ($3). All were wrapped in two soft corn tortillas, just like all the other tacos I’ve had in the area. The barbocoa taco was filled with lamb, onion, cilantro, tomato and guacamole. The lamb was dry, but pretty tender, and something in the taco was extremely spicy. After the guacamole lack-of-heat weirdness, I thought Maria’s was afraid their customers didn’t want/like spiciness. However, these tacos and Meg’s enchiladas proved this to not be true at all. The guacamole was obviously an aberration. Maybe they forgot the hot peppers. Anyway, the shrimp taco was filled with four nice-sized shrimp, cilantro and tomato and something else that made it really hot. The pork was kind of shredded and pretty moist and was also really spicy.

Although the tacos were really tasty, my main beef with them was the corn tortillas. I’ve discussed before that the tacos in Sunset Park are wrapped in two corn tortillas, but are usually really greasy. My new theory is that they need to be wrapped in two because the inner tortilla is drenched in grease, and the outer tortilla is dryer, making them easier to eat. However, the tacos at Maria’s Bistro Mexicano were not greasy at all, therefore not requiring the second tortilla. Instead of getting a greasy, delicious taco, like at ‘Truck. Stop. Love.,’ you get some tasty meat and veggies wrapped in two dry corn tortillas. Not that great.

Meanwhile, the service was really nice. The food came quickly and they refilled our water frequently. They also asked us if we wanted dessert, but we were too stuffed for it. About ten minutes later two guys brought some flambé to the table, where they lit it in front of us. Miraculously, we were hungry again and finished the plantains quickly, which were really good, and not just because it was free (which might have been because we took pictures of the food). This is not the first time I’ve received free sweets in Sunset Park, by the way. Actually, across the street from Maria’s, at Sunset Park Diner and Donuts, I got a free donut at 1 in the morning (where I didn’t take any pictures). It must be a lucky block.

Although I thought the food at Maria’s Bistro Mexicano was inconsistent and pricier than the other Mexican restaurants in Sunset Park, it was a really enjoyable experience. Decor won’t make or break a restaurant for me, but I liked the obvious thought and time spent on the decorations there. Also, the waiters were really nice and attentive (even before we took pictures). The soup, burrito, enchiladas, and flambé were great, but the tacos and guacamole were just O.K. No doubt I’ll be back, but not when I’m in the mood for tacos.